After
completion of the training, our plan was to ferry
the helicopters to the UAE. Lt Col Awan, the Commanding
Officer, Major Taseer Jordanian Army and I were to
assist the ferry team of three retired US Army helicopter
pilots. Among the two routes considered for the ferry
flight – Italy, Cyprus, across Mediterranean
Sea to Egypt, Saudi Arabia and UAE, and the other
– Italy, Yugoslavia, Bulgaria, Turkey, Iran
and UAE, the latter was selected for good reasons.
During the time ferry details were being finalized
which included confirmation of flight plans, insurance
coverage, visa formalities etc, helicopters were flight
tested and prepared for the ferry flight. We had earlier
arrived at the Agusta Bell helicopter factory in Milan
where handing/taking over formalities were completed
and on May 05, 1975 the plan was to commence the journey.
First
halt was at a small border town on Italy-Yugoslavia
border. We were booked in a small guest house owned
by a middle-aged typical heavyweight Italian lady,
that reminds me of Italian women, trust me I have
not come across as pretty and attractive girls as
I saw in Italy but how strange the same pretty girls
no sooner they reach their forties then they lose
their physical charms. This is an innocent observation
no hard feelings please. We spent the evening resting
in our rooms, the owneress was particularly kind,
she looked after us well. After dinner I walked over
to a nearby market to telephone my wife who was with
her family in Nairobi Kenya. I was anxious because
my wife was in the family way and expected date of
delivery was last week of April or first week of May
1975. When my call went through she was on the other
end. She had been waiting to deliver the good news
to me. The good news was the birth of our daughter
who was named Komel. She was born on the 1st of May
1975 and by the time I called she was already 5 days
old. I was very happy to receive the news for I was
now a father to a son and a daughter.
The
following morning we were all set to resume the journey.
Starting early within 30 minutes of flying we crossed
over into Yugoslavia. The layout of the land below
was not much different except that villages/towns
on the Yugoslavian side appeared less modern. Flight
was smooth, en route we landed at Zegreb for refuelling
before reaching Belgrade for the night stay.
Belgrade
International Airport did not give the look of a modern
European airport. Systems were old fashioned lacking
finesse and mannerism, people did not seem to care
for courtesy, they were not as friendly either. I
was quite surprised, but later learnt that Socialist
system cared little for elegance or its projection.
State kept control over all aspects of governance.
Emphasis was more on subsistence than affluence. Fear
and coercion, State-sponsored measures were commonly
used to restrict people from showing desires for personal
rights and freedom. It left me with no doubt about
the withdrawn behaviour of the common people. Despite
all this there was no lacking in efficiency, people
carried on with their jobs in routine. Meanwhile,
helicopters were made ready for the next day, they
were parked at the location earmarked by the Authorities.
Later we left for the hotel. Hotel was conveniently
located in downtown, it was reasonably equipped without
any sophistications. Never mind that, we were fairly
comfortable. Food was of good quality and cheap as
well, I remember eating the most delicious veal steaks,
I have yet to eat more delicious steak than that.
We spent the evening walking around the city. Traffic
on the road was thin, people mostly travelled on foot
or used public transport. Life was much slower than
what we experienced in the rest of Europe. Next morning
at the breakfast table we were told that due to National
Day celebrations in Yugoslavia our departure would
be delayed. It was not known when the permission would
be granted. On the third day, however, Civil Aviation
Authorities finally cleared our flight. Our next destination
was Istanbul, Turkey. En route we flew across Bulgaria
with only a brief halt at Sophia, the Capital of Bulgaria
for refuelling and refreshments. It was a long flight
to Istanbul we arrived just minutes before the sun
went down.
The
hotel we were scheduled to stay at Istanbul was at
a distance from the airport. Driving through the streets
of Istanbul was a fascinating experience. Seated in
the cab, I let my imaginations take me into the glorious
years of one of the greatest empires, the Ottoman
Empire. I did not for a moment feel I was a stranger,
I was overwhelmed with emotions, truly it was an historic
moment for me. Next morning while on course to Ankara
we took the opportunity of flying over Istanbul, particularly
in the close vicinity of the famous bridge over Bosporous
which links Black Sea with the Mediteranean Sea, where
East meets the West. With full three dimensional view
of the structure and the surroundings, I was overwhelmed,
the experience was unique, it was as if I was travelling
through history.
The
euphoria, however, lasted a few minutes. Soon we were
past the bridge and the town on course to our next
destination. Three hours of non-stop helicopter ride
was tiring. We reached Ankara International Airport,
our stay there was brief, after refuelling and refreshments
we resumed our journey and close to sunset reached
Diyarbakir. At Diyarbakir we made up for the lost
sleep to be ready for the next day’s flight
to Tebrez a small town on the border of Turkey and
Iran. Tebrez also is the gateway to Central Asia.
Route
to Tebrez was over hilly and uninhabited terrain,
flying time to Tebrez was close to 5 hours, we were
almost drained by the time we reached Tebrez. Between
Diyarbakir and Tebrez refuelling arrangements were
not available, therefore, we carried three 40 gallon
drum with JP-1 fuel each and a hand operated fuel
pump each for manual refuelling. Although we were
not happy with this arrangement of manual refuelling,
we were given assurance by the ferry pilots who told
us they had travelled over the same route a number
of times ferrying helicopters for other customers.
3 hours outbound from Diyarbakir, we decided to land.
Selecting a lonely spot on a ridge away from the built
up area, we put the helicopters down and switched
off. It was nice and quiet. We started to refuel,
while we were busy refuelling, one by one people started
to gather around the helicopters soon a sizeable crowd
had gathered watching us from a distance. Nothing
was alarming till after refuelling as we prepared
to board the helicopters, a man wearing security guard
uniform pointed his riffle at us and said “you
no go”. It was as simple as that. We looked
at each other with wide blank eyes, not knowing what
had happened. We made efforts to calm the young man
down and also tried to explain our position. The man
was unmoved, he kept repeating “you no go, you
no go”. There was not much we could do except
wait for something miraculous to happen. As minutes
ticked, it made us uneasy, we were running short of
daylight hours as well. As we thought hard about possible
options, a middle aged man, giving the look of an
ex-soldier stepped out of the crowd and walked over
to where we sat. He began speaking in broken English
“What the problem”, he asked. Well, well,
at least there was someone who cared what our problem
was. He was told about our problem as convincingly
as possible. Having listened to us, he turned towards
the security guard and started talking to him, all
we could gather from their conversation was the security
guard nodding his head sometimes in the positive and
sometimes in the negative. We hoped better sense would
prevail. The arbitrator once again turned towards
us and said that a messenger on a horseback would
be sent to a nearby security post, he would call Diyarbakir
and after permission is granted, we would be allowed
to proceed. It took 2 hours for the messenger to return
with the good news. Before we left, the arbitrator
who came to our rescue told us that one of the reasons
which made our case complicated was the presence of
different nationalities and helicopters marked with
UAE Police Air Wing signs. Anyhow all is well that
ends well, thanking our hosts, we departed without
any further delay. Thank God we managed to reach Tebrez
before dark.
At
Tebrez another drama was in the making. This time
it was the immigration officer who gave us some anxious
moments. At the immigration desk the Americans were
given a preferential treatment, they were cleared
by the officer with respect and hospitality. When
it was our turn the smile had vanished, the officer
was noticeably arrogant. He took out a register with
names of blacklisted persons. He started checking
every passport with the list of blacklisted persons
before handing them back to us. The treatment given
to us was uncalled for, the behaviour of the immigration
officer was disappointing and embarrassing particularly
in the presence of the American pilots.
We
departed Tebrez early next morning to avoid the heat
and the dust, high temperatures and dust storms were
a common phenomenon during that part of the year.
All the way to Tehran, however, the flight was smooth
and comfortable, by midday we arrived at Tehran International
Airport. Tehran, the Capital of Iran, was a modern
westernized city, from what I saw and observed, the
Americans enjoyed a dominating influence over the
Iranians although the difference in the rural urban
lifestyle was well marked.