At the time of collusion of the Indian sub-continent with the land mass of Asia, about one hundred million years ago, nature carefully disposed the Pir panjal range in the Himalayan complex to be the necklace of the complex, strewn with jewels of peaks of varying heights ranging from 5,000ft (1524m) to 16830ft (5130m). The state of Jammu and Kashmir, less the northern areas of Gilgit, Baltistan, Hunza and Nagar etc, is virtually comprised of Pir Panjal and the areas of its watershed. The range has been a witness to numerous politico-cultural inroads, down to mighty Mughals, Sikhs, the colonial Anglo- Saxons and the present, less fortunate, perpetually warring nations of Hindus and Muslims. The range, running South to North West, dissects the Himalayan state of Jammu and Kashmir in two parts, up to Muzaffarabad district, beyond which Sulaiman, Hindu Kush and Karakoram ranges come into play.

Dominating features of significance, on IHK (Indian Held Kashmir) and AK (Azad Kashmir) sides, from south to northwest, are: Banihal Pass 9,200ft (2,804m) IHK, Pir Panjal Pass, 11,400ft (3,474m) IHK, Tattakuti 15,524ft (4,732m) IHK, Bedori 12,560ft (3,828m) AK, Haji Pir Pass 8,500ft (2,591m) AK, Ganga Choti 10,200ft (3,109m) AK and Tutmar Gali in Kazinag complex,12,531ft (3,820m) AK. The most frequent and scary feature of these peaks and ridge lines is lightening. Captain Montgomerie, in his account of the survey states “on the Pir Panjal peaks the electricity was so troublesome, even when there was no storm, that it was found necessary to carry a portable lightning conductor for the protection of the theodolite.”

Pir Panjal range enters the state of Jammu and Kashmir from the mountain state of Chamba in the southeast and is cut through by the Chenab in Jammu. Pir Panjal continues northwest to form the high southern rim of the vale, with peaks up to 16,830 ft. (5,130 m.), deep wooded valleys, and torrents on its southern flanks, and fine alpine pastures (margs) lie on its northern rim. Gulmarg 8,700 ft. (2,650 m), the sporting and holiday centre, is typical of these. West of Baramula, at the western end of the vale, Pir Panjal is pierced by river Jhelum in a deep gorge.

While Jammu, Poonch, and the southern ranges have a considerable rainfall from June to Sept – in August more than 12.5 in (318mm) in both places – the greater part of the Kashmir Vale is sheltered from the monsoon by the Pir Panjal, (Srinagar 2.3in/58mm). The valleys of Ladakh and Baltistan are largely shielded from both monsoon and western disturbances, and have usually less than 10in.(254mm) of annual precipitation but the higher ranges of Baltistan and the Karakoram get considerably more rain.

There are numerous hill stations as health resorts in the Indo-Pak sub-continent like Nainital, 6,400ft (1,950m), Dalhousie, 6,740ft (2,055m), Simla 7,000ft (2,134m), Murree, 7,500ft (2,286m) and many more but the Mughal emperors preferred to trek all the way to Srinagar, 5,250ft (1,600m) for their summer retirement. The royal entourage would enter the state from Gujrat (Pak) and travel to Srinagar via Bhimber, Thana, Mandi, Haji Pir Pass and Baramula to Srinagar. It has been chronicled that Emperor Jehangir died during one of his travels on way back from Srinagar, at Noori Cham, near Mandi, in Poonch District, a foothill of Pir Panjal.

Mughal obsession with Kashmir was not out of place. Nature has conferred some of the most exceptional favours to the watershed areas of Pir Panjal, that account for most of the area of the state of Jammu and Kashmir. Life long experience has shown that the climate of the watershed areas of Pir Panjal is the best in the world. Most of the major ailments like diabetes, hypertension, heart problems, piles and even cancer are not as endemic as elsewhere in the region. The staple cultivation of these areas is maize except in the Srinagar valley where rice is grown in abundance. Most of the population uses spring water. Food and water combined with the invigorating environments may be the main cause of good health and longevity of the populace.

The timber of these areas, specially, deodar and kail, is also rated as the best in the sub-continent. In addition chil, poplar, maple, the red and white hawthorn, wild chestnut and many more varieties of timber are obtained from the forests of Kashmir for export to the other areas of the sub-continent.

The medicinal herbs of Kashmir are also famous in the sub-continent and are acclaimed as of the best possible quality. Amongst other useful plants occur the alisma plantago, formerly regarded as a specific against hydrophobia. Kuts or wild indigo also abounds. Mushak Bala, Ratanjote, Budmaiwa, Patrees and many other herbs are a source of thriving commercial activity in the state. Mushroom and saffron of Kashmir are decidedly the best in the world. Saffron is extensively used by the Kashmiris as a condiment, for which purpose it is mixed with water and pounded, and eaten with fish and meat, to which it imparts a pungent flavour. It is chronicled in the Gazetteer of Kashmir that the very strong scent which the saffron-flower possesses is thus referred by the Emperor Jehangir in his “Journal”: “I accompanied my father to this spot during the season of flowers. In some places the beds of saffron-flowers extend to a kos. Their appearance is best at a distance, and when they are plucked they emit a strong smell. My attendants were all seized with a headache, and though I was myself at the time intoxicated with liquor, I felt also my head affected. I inquired of the brutal Kashmiris who were employed in plucking them, what was their condition, and they replied that they never had a headache in their lifetime.”

Kashmir is also famous for the variety and a very high quality of its fruits. Hugel, a sound and well informed botanist, considers Kashmir superior to all other countries in the abundance and excellence of its fruits. Apple, pear, peach, apricot, plum, almond, pomegranate, mulberry, walnut, hazel-nut (pistachio), cherries and melon are grown in a planned fashion under the advice and assistance of official horticulturist. Many thousands of acres skirting the foothills are covered with apple and pear trees. In addition abundant fruit grows wild in Kashmir. The significant wild fruits are strawberry, raspberry, currant, wild grapes (dakhan), kunkoli and guch. Apple and apricot are dried at a large scale and eaten during winter, usually in the morning. All said and done, the apple of Kashmir has acquired a proverbial fame and acclaim in the sub-continent and the Indian government has adopted it as a ritual to present crates of Kashmiri apples to the visiting foreign dignitaries.

Papermashi, shawl weaving and wood carving are the main occupations of the people of the vale. The pashmina shawl of Kashmir is of international fame and is exported to many countries. The silk-worm, it is said, was introduced into Kashmir shortly before the reign of the emperor Akbar by Mirza Hyder of Kashgar, who imported , according to tradition, a chittak of eggs from Bokhara.

The wildlife of Kashmir is also sufficiently diverse. Leopard, Hangal, Bear, Fox, Ibex, Kakar (mountain goat or barking deer), Markhore (serpent eater), Musk and wolves are some of the animals with significant populations. A wide variety of fish is found in the rivers and streams of Kashmir. Some of the best quality trout is found in the upper reaches of rivers Jhelum, Kishanganga and some other streams. Right up to the independence of India and Pakistan the beehives were a part of the household culture and every house, in the country side, had the provision of beehives up to a maximum of ten. The provision of beehives was catered at the time of design and construction of each house. Similarly, floating gardens, towed with the house boats, were a peculiar sight, but confined to the valley of Srinagar.

Quite a few minerals like iron, copper, sulphur, coal, lignite (salajit), gypsum, chalk, marble, mica and gold are the only minerals extracted at a commercial scale. Captain Montgomerie, R. E., who, in his account of the progress of the Kashmir survey, gives the following particulars regarding gold washing in a stream: “The drainage, escaping from the plains of Seosai through a not easily distinguished gorge near the Katasiri station, falls into the Dras river above Kirkitchoo. This tributary of the Dras river is called the Shigar and sometimes the Shingo river brings down gold with its waters, and gold washing is carried on just below the junction. The Indus itself and several of its tributaries are known to produce gold.” Gold washing is also carried out on the banks of Jhelum, in the neighbourhood of Tangrot, north of Jhelum.

The population of the state is predominantly Muslim. Hindus and Sikhs also comprise a sizable minority but are in majority in some of the districts of Jammu province. The valley of Srinagar has some 20 tribes or clans among the Muslims. Of these, the Chak, who were the warriors of Kashmir and bravely resisted the invasion of Mughals. Akbar, when attempting to take Kashmir, was three times defeated, it is said, by the Chak kings. After Chaks, Rishis were the most respectable people during the time of Akbar. Maleks rank next to Rishis. The original Kashmiris, who speak Kashmiri dialect are mostly confined to the districts of Srinagar valley, though some sprinkling of these Kashmiri speaking people is also found in rest of the state as well. Muzaffarabad (AK) and Poonch (IHK) are the significant niches of Kashmiri speaking people who still maintain their Kashmiri traditions. Elsewhere in the state most of the populace is constituted of a conglomerate of immigrant settlers like Gujars from the Gujrat, Gujranwala and Rawalpindi district of Punjab. Dogras, Sikhs, Pathans, Syeds and many other clans are immigrants from the Indus and Ganges valleys.

The Kashmir Gazetteer sums up the character of Kashmiris as follows: “The Kashmiri has been called the Neapolitan of the East; lively, ingenious, witty, and good-humoured. They have, for ages, been oppressed and insulted, and are much addicted to the never-failing vices of slaves, lying, and trickery; the truth, even for their advantage, is avoided by them, and they are inordinately devoted to amusement and pleasure.”

The fact remains that the vale of Kashmir possesses the pride of having a culture. It has been noted in Rajatrangni that the valley of Kashimir is the only model, unlike rest of the sub-continent, which is having a distinct and definable set of cultural values. Kashmiris have a distinct dress, dialect, cuisine, art, craft, ritual and conviviality in use and practice since centuries. While analyzing various contours of Kashmiri culture (Kashmiriat), one finds that the overall complexion of Kashmiriat gains its freshness and strength from the snow capped peaks and l.